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Lima, Peru -
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Lima, nowadays a bustling, little bit chaotic and quite noisy city, has a rich historical and architectural heritage. When Francisco Pizarro founded Lima in 1535 on an existing indigenous settlement he had clear orders by the Spanish crown on how to create and organize the city. The design and layout of Limas historical Center was based on the model of cities in Spain, especially Seville. The same applies for the first colonial houses in Lima. Initially the first mansions were all built block (Spanish = Cuadra) by block around Plaza Mayor in a chessboard style and with specific rules as determined by Francisco Pizarro (exact length of one block = 400 feet/122 m and a precise width of the streets = 40 foot/12.2 m).
During the Colonial times the Spanish immigrants developed their own unique architectural style. The origins of this style were very similar to the typical Arabic-Moorish architecture in Spain. The settlers had to adapt to the local environment like earthquakes or the inferiority of building materials and so soon a very characteristic architectural style developed. Good examples of unique architectural factors are the famous balconies of Lima; most of them closed balconies with jalousies, of Moorish origin but with an absolutely distinctive Lima style and character. Lima known as the ‘City of Kings’ and ‘City of Gardens’ was soon famous for these extraordinary balconies and known as well as ‘City of Balconies’. Lima had so many balconies that nobody ever thought they would be some day something special. The main reason for building closed balconies was that the first immigrants thought it would be inappropriate for their women to be seen from a window, an open balcony or when going outside. Therefore closed balconies like in North-Africa were built, allowing the high society ladies of Lima to see what was going on outside but without being seen. Today the core of colonial Lima still exists, but relatively few of Limas original colonial mansions are still standing. Reasons for that are severe earthquakes (in particular the ones from 1746 and 1940), urban development at the beginning of the 19th century and of course modernisation. A lot of buildings in Limas City Center date back to the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century, when the wealthy and powerful Republican elite tried to construct a modern city based on the model of Paris (at that time assumed to be the cultural capital in the world).
However you will still find today a few amazing and impressive mansions from Colonial times and the beginning of the Republic that are worth a visit. Go for it! Don’t let yourself be scared off by good meant warnings that Limas City Center is very unsafe and dangerous. It’s true that you should take precautions like in every capital city, don’t show off (like carrying your 2000 US$ Digital camera on the belly), carry lots of cash, wear your Rolex (by the way you can buy pretty good replicas here…) and try to blend in, than you should be fine.
Since the 90s the Municipality of Lima ‘cleaned’ the City Center in an effort to remove lots of persistent street vendors (unfortunately there a still quite a few left) and dodgy figures. Programs initiated by the government encouraged the citizens to be proud of their city, renovate buildings and ‘shape up’ streets and parks in an attempt to recuperate the city’s cultural heritage and of course to promote tourism. We only can recommend to take your time while walking through Limas historic Center, look behind the at some places tatty facades of Lima. Feel and enjoy the magic radiated by the beautiful, rich historical and cultural heritage.
To give you an impression on what to expect, we have tried to create a list of some interesting houses in the City Center of Lima and to briefly describe them. If there is one missing you think is worth mentioning, let us know! (All submitted information & pictures will be published free of charge!) The ‘Casa de Aliaga’ is the oldest colonial mansion in Lima, maybe even in whole South America. The house has been owned and lived in by the family Aliaga and their descendents since Franzisco Pizarro granted the land to Jerónimo de Aliaga in 1535. Originally there was a pre-Columbian altar on that plot of land owned by ‘Curaca Tauli Chusco’ (the reign of the Rimac valley). Even if time, weather and pollution seem to slowly destroy the facade, the beautiful balcony is still impressive. Absolutely amazing is the inside: the inner patio is extraordinary and an imposing wooden staircase leads up to the elegant salons that are richly decorated with colonial furniture.
Casa de Aliaga
Jr. de la Union 224, Cercado de Lima, Lima This irreplaceable building of colonial Peruvian history can only be visited as part of a city tour with ‘Lima Tours’ (Phone 619-6900, web page: http://www.limatours.com.pe) The origin of the ‘Casa de Pilatos’ or ‘Casa de Esquivel y Jarava’ (after their first owners) is still not completely uncovered. On the base of historical documents and writings of the famous Peruvian author Ricardo Palma it is believed that this beautiful house was built in 1590 and therefore is one of the oldest colonial buildings in Lima. The ‘Casa de Pilatos’ represents a magnificent example of colonial houses. The most remarkable elements are the impressive front, the double hall and the monumental stairs.
The original elegance of this unique building is best relived in the principal court. Even though that the ‘Casa de Pilatos’ withstood the severe earthquakes from 1687 and 1746 and others that followed, it was damaged badly and had to be rebuild several times. The original balconies for example were destroyed and later replaced with replicas. Today it houses the ‘Tribunal Constitucional’ (Constitutional Court). Casa de Pilatos
Jr. Ancash 390, Cercado de Lima, Lima St. Martín de Porres was born illegitimate in 1579 in this beautiful preserved building in Lima that belonged to his mother a coloured freed-woman from Panama. His father was a Spanish gentleman. With fifteen, he became a lay brother at the Dominican Friary in Lima and spent his whole life there as a barber, farm labourer, almoner, and infirmarian. He devoted himself to ceaseless and severe penances. In return God endowed him with many graces and wondrous gifts.
St. Martin's love was all-embracing; devoted equally to humans and to animals (many statues show him with a dog, a cat and a mouse). He was a very close friend of St. Rose of Lima. He died on November 3, 1639 and was canonized on May 6, 1962. His shrine is located within the Convent of Santo Domingo in Lima, alongside with Saint Rose and Alonso Abad. ---> Link to the 'Church and Convent of Santo Domingo - click here Casa donde nació San Martín de Porres
Jr. Callao cuadra 5 (opposite Iglesia de Santa Rosa), Cercado de Lima, Lima Only little is known about this house standing at the north-east corner of the Plaza Mayor. It dates back to the end of the 17th century and is one of the oldest mansions in Lima. It got its name ‘Casa del Oidor’ (oidor means in Spanish something like ‘the one that hears / listens’) because it is speculated that in colonial times this decent looking but historical valuable building housed the magistrates from the highest courts (the Audencia) and the so called ‘Oidors’ listened to the complaints from the public.
Unfortunately the building is not open to visitors, but the amazing balconies, from which the ‘Doñas’ of Lima might have watched what was going on at Plaza Mayor (without being seen on the closed balconies), are worth visiting. Casa del Oidor
Corner of Jr. Carabaya and Jr. Junín, Cercado de Lima, Lima Considered one of the most magnificent buildings in South America, this unique mansion shows the elegance and grace of the architecture in the early 18th century. It was built in 1730 by José B. Tagle, the Marquis of Torre Tagle and treasurer of the Royal Spanish fleet. His coat of arms is still visible above the door. Flanked by two impressive carved wooden balconies (in our opinion the most beautiful ones in Lima), the stone entrance is carved as one you would normally find at a church.
The inside court is a typical Seville style patio with extraordinary wooden balconies and galleries (beautiful!). The main hall is still furnished with lovely pieces from the 18th century. Today this best example of colonial architecture in the country houses the Peruvian Foreign Affairs Ministry. Unfortunately it can’t be visited by the public. But when walking by you might be able to peek inside. On Jiron Ucayali are several magnificent buildings, that can be combined to one visit: • Palacio Torre Tagle • Casa L’Eau Vive (literally opposite of the Palacio Torre Tagle) • Iglesia y Convento San Pedro (Corner of Jr. Azángaro and Jr. Ucayali) • Casa de Goyoneche / Casa de Rada (next to the Casa L’Eau Vive) • The Central Reserve Bank Museum of Peru (Corner of Jr. Lampa & Jr. Ucayali) ---> Link to the Iglesia y Convento San Pedro - click here
---> Link to the Central Reserve Bank Museum - click here
Palacio Torre Tagle
Jr. Ucayali 363, Cercado de Lima, Lima Just across the street from Palacio Torre Tagle is an impressive 18th century mansion, the ‘Casa de Rada’ or ‘Casa de Goyoneche’. The house is one of the first buildings that shows a distinct French influence, typical for buildings in the mid 18th century in Lima. Characteristic for Lima are the beautiful preserved balconies and distinctive doors. The inside is decorated with unique pieces of Colonial and Republican times like great crystal chandeliers, Spanish clocks, Venetian vases, enormous mirrors and oil paintings with beautifully decorated gold and silver picture frames.
Unfortunately the house is not open to the public but once again, you might be able to sneak a glance at the amazing patio. Casa de Goyoneche or Casa de Rada
Jr. Ucayali 358, Cercado de Lima, Lima This decent 18th century building was nicely restored in the mid 19th century. Worth mentioning is the beautiful carved open balcony. But the house is absolutely worth a visit.
Inside the Casa L’Eau Vive you will find a restaurant, run by a society of nuns as charity project. The atmosphere in this nice colonial house is great, the food good and the prices reasonable. Casa L’Eau Vive
Jr. Ucayali 370 Cercado de Lima Lima In the early 18th century Don Jorge Negreiros, the chief magistrate of Arica, settled in Lima and built his house just two blocks from Plaza Mayor. It was once restored in Republican times, then in 1970 and again in 1997 by the Municipality of Lima which declared this remarkable mansion a ‘Historical Patrimony of the City of Lima’.
Absolutely unique is the impressive long wooden balcony going around the corner of the house and covering almost the whole length of the facade. The inside patio is most probably one of the best examples of neo-Classicism in Lima. Casa Negreiros
Jr. Azángaro 536 Cercado de Lima, Lima This beautiful mansion was built in 1760 on behalf of the family Riva Agüero. It was then donated by the last descendant of the Riva Agüero family Don José de la Riva Agüero to the Pontifical Catholic University of Peru. Today it houses the ‘Institute Riva-Agüero’, the Center of Humanistic Studies of the Catholic University in Lima.
Inside this typical colonial mansion the Institute Riva-Agüero’ holds an extensive historical archive and a rich library. You will find here as well the ‘Museo de Artes y Tradiciones Populares’. ---> Link to the the Museo de Artes y Tradiciones Populares’ - click here Casa de Riva Agüero
Jr. Camaná 459 Cercado de Lima Lima This remarkable colonial mansion was built in the 18th century by the family Larriva. Typical for Lima and the time the house was built in, are the two balconies and the large front door which grants you access to the amazing inner patio. The doors, windows, magnificent bars and the Andalusian style gallery are still the original ones. The interior ambience stands out for its viceregal ceiling in the second salon and the elegant furniture donated mostly by distinguished families in Lima.
As many of the houses of this epoch the Casa Larriva was damaged by the severe earthquake of 1746. Additionally a fire in 1780 destroyed the house even more, so that a restoration was inevitable. Today this impressive mansion is the headquarters of the Cultural Association ‘Entre Nous’. It can be visited with prior appointment! Casa Larriva or Casa de los Marqueses de la Riva
Jr. Ica 426 Cercado de Lima, Lima This single-story residence originally belonging to the López-Flores family dates back to the mid 18th century. Built in clear rococo style with for Lima at this time typical front, the excellent design fits perfect to the architectural character in the 18th century. Still preserved are the original doors, windows and grills. Unfortunately the outside of this mansion is quite deteriorated. Still beautiful are the patio and the rooms with a classic Spanish influence.
The ‘Casa de las Trece Monedas’ (‘House of the Thirteen Coins’ named after the thirteen coins in the coat of arms of the family) housed for a long time a restaurant with the same name. Today you will find here the ‘National University of Engineering’ with its ‘Institute of Mathematics and Related Science’. Casa de las Trece Monedas
Jr. Ancash 536, Cercado de Lima, Lima The Casa de Osambela or known as well as Casa de Oquendo is one of the most traditional buildings that combines the cultural and historical patrimony of Lima. This impressive mansion was built by Martin de Osambela, a merchant, banker and ship-owner as his family residence at the beginning of the 19th century (the construction took nearly four years and was finished in 1807). Really unique for Lima (at that time) are the 3 levels of the house and the lovely ‘mirador’ (look-out) on the roof, from where the owner used to watch the incoming ships of Callao's harbour. Impressive are also the five wooden balconies.
Inside you will find a spectacular patio and around 40 bedrooms. Today this architectural masterpiece houses the Cultural Center Garcilaso de la Vega. The center is open to the public and the entrance is free. If you like to visit, the friendly staff will take you on a tour through the mansion. They will be happy about a tip for their service. When taking the pictures of the house we were asked to wait for a moment, because there was a sheet hanging out of one of the windows and they didn’t want to spoil our shots (!) Casa de Osambela / Casa Oquendo
Jr. Conde de Superunda 298, Cercado de Lima, Lima If you are on your way through Limas streets anyway, don’t miss to have a glance at this impressive building. The two floor facade built in 1913 is beautifully decorated with a wrought-iron balustrade in the ‘Art Nouveau’ style.
Inside are wide salons decorated with stucco and glass paintings. Casa Fernandini
Corner of Jr. Ica and Jr. Rufino Torrico Cercado de Lima, Lima This beautiful preserved convent from 1603, used to be the ‘Centro de Estudios del Real Colegio Secular de los Agustinos de San Ildefonso’ and the ‘Convent de las Monjas Recogidas’ (the Convent of the ‘Quiet Nuns’). In September 1918 the ‘Escuela Nacional de Bellas Artes’ (School of the Beaux-Arts) was founded and after five months of restoration the school was officially opened in April 1919.
The current facade of the school was designed in 1924 by the famous Spanish sculptor and architect Manuel Piqueras Cotolí, who came to Lima in 1920 to teach at the ‘School of the Beaux-Arts’. The brick wall is beautifully decorated with a mixture of pre-Hispanic and colonial motives. Inside you find an amazing illuminated patio with impressive arcades. Escuela Nacional de Bellas Artes
Jr. Ancash 681, Cercado de Lima, Lima The original house on this property was built by Captain Villegas (governor of Callao) in 1752. In 1818 the building was bought by the Lobatón Laos family. Its current design dates back to the middle of the 19th century, when General César Canevaro, a war hero of the Chilean War (1879 – 1883) rebuilt the house in a typical republican style with pure and refined lines and beautiful wooden balconies.
Casa Canevaro
Jr. Ancash 769, Cercado de Lima Lima In April 1561 Diego Lopez de Zuñiga asked the Spanish Crown for the authorization to establish a ‘currency house‘ in Lima to bring order to the various currencies issued in the country. The permission for unified silver coins was granted by Felipe II in August 1565. The production began almost immediately in the Government Palace and other places, later then as well in the ‘Casa de la Moneda’. This beautiful preserved mansion housed for some time the ancient ‘Tribunal Mayor de Cuentas’ (main court of auditors or main court of accounts).
Since 2004 one floor of the building is occupied by the ‘Museo Numismatico del Perú’ with its exhibition of fantastic ancient Peruvian coins and banknotes. The collection beautifully visualises the history of money in Peru. Casa de la Moneda
Jr. Junin 781, Cercado de Lima, Lima Right in the middle of the historic center you find another beautiful preserved colonial mansion: The ‘Casa Miguel Grau’. Built in the last years of the 17th century the house was occupied by the Oidor Don Gaspar Osma y Tricio (Oidor = Spanish: hearer, a judge of the appeal court), later by the Peruvian writer José de la Riva Agüero y Osma. In 1867 the famous Peruvian Navy Admiral Miguel Grau lived here until his death during the Pacific War in 1879.
Even after being the home to many families, being utilized for shops and housing a restaurant the original architectural style survived. Since 1984 the ‘Museo Casa Miguel Grau’ resides in the mansion. It was opened by the Peruvian Navy to honour the life and work of the ‘Caballero de los Mares’ (the ‘Gentleman of the seas’) and his family. The museum displays a collection of photos, clothing, furniture and personal belongings of Miguel Grau and many old documents from the Peruvian Navy. ---> Link to the Museum Casa Miguel Grau - click here
Casa Miguel Grau
Jr. Huancavelica 170 -172, Cercado de Lima, Lima The Palais Concert was opened in 1913 originally as a confectionary, café and bar but almost immediately developed to the meeting place of the bohemian and intellectual world of Lima. Soon it was the most fashionable café, decorated in art nouveau style with magnificent chandeliers hanging from the ceiling, walls covered with mirrors and two rooms with over 100 seats. A female (!) orchestra played (unusual for Lima at this time) Viennese waltzes and German ‘lieder’ (songs). The Palais Concert became soon an indicator of how Limas society began to change as the city took on a modern form.
On the current 50 Soles note appears the Palais Concert with one of its regular guests, the journalist and writer Abraham Valdelomar, who was known to have said the following famous statement: ‘Perú is Lima, Lima is the Jirón de la Unión, the Jirón de la Unión is the 'Palais Concert' and the 'Palais Concert'… that’s me!’ Palais Concert
Corner of Jr. de la Union with Av.de la Emancipación, Cercado de Lima, Lima The Central Post Office was opened in 1897. At the beginning of the 20th century ‘Lima’ tried to remodel the city based on the model of Paris. Therefore it’s not surprising to find the Central Post Office in this typical European style. No doubt, you can send your postcards or parcel from here or just buy a stamp, but even if you don’t need to, you should visit the ‘Casa de Correos y Telegrafos’ and admire the architectural beauty of this building.
Inside you find as well the ‘Museo Postal y Filatélico’, a small museum that shows everything related to the Peruvian postal history. Don’t miss the rear of the building; the entrance is via the Pasaje Piura. A unique arcade with lots of small shops is waiting for you there. ---> Link to the description of the ‘Museo Postal y Filatélico’ - click here Casa de Correos y Telegrafos
Central Post Office Jr. Conde de Superunda 170 Cercado de Lima, Lima The ‘Estacion de Desamparados’ (named after an orphanage and church that were build there before) was designed by Rafael Marquina and opened in 1912. Situated behind the Presidential Palace at the River Rimac it was the great symbol of progress and visual example for the project of creating an infrastructure and for the development of Lima/Peru.
The model for the ‘new’ Lima was Paris (in Latin America assumed to be the cultural capital of the world). Many old colonial buildings had to make way for the modernisation of the City Center in the beginning of the 20th century. Nevertheless the ‘Estacion de Desamparados’ blends in nicely with the old city while at the same time reflecting the modernity of this era. The impressive facade is surely neoclassical. The stations interior is dominated by iron structures and lots of glass. At the beginning of the 20th century ‘Desamparados’ was the starting point for one of the world’s great railway journeys of the world: Lima – Huancayo. Unfortunately passenger services were terminated a long time ago. But since the beginning of 2007 the service has been re-established. The train from Lima to Huancayo leaves the station at 07.00 am (Tickets are available at the Teletickets stands). Finally, the beautiful ‘Estacion de Desamparados’ not only houses a Cultural Center with temporary art exhibitions, but as well serves as a station again. Estacion de Desamparados /Railway Station
Corner of Jr. Carabaya and Jr. Ancash, Cercado de Lima, Lima The Archbishop Palace is situated directly at Plaza Mayor, the main place in colonial Lima next to the Cathedral. This important place in the middle of town shows you which immense power the church had in colonial Lima. Just to give you an example: during colonial times the archbishop acted in place of the viceroy during his absence.
Constructions for the Cathedral and the original ‘Palacio Arzobispo’ started shortly after the foundation of Lima in 1535. The Archbishops Palace you see today is a reconstruction from 1924 built in neo-colonial style. Still amazing are the beautiful typical wooden balconies that are well maintained regularly (as you see on our photo). You can visit the Palace from Monday to Friday 08.00 am to 05.00 pm Palacio Arzobispo
Archbishop Palace Plaza Mayor (next to the Cathedral between Jr. Junín and Jr. Huallaga) Cercado de Lima, Lima The Government or Presidential Palace is located at exactly the same place on Plaza Mayor where the pre-Columbian main authority of the Rimac Valley, the Curaca Taulichusco, had his residence. In 1535 the founder of Lima, Francisco Pizarro decided to build the first Spanish ‘Palace of the Viceroys’ in Lima. Therefore the ‘Palacio de Gobierno’ is also known as ‘Casa de Pizarro’.
Today it’s the central seat of government and the official residence of the President of Peru. Since the first construction the palace has been rebuilt, restored and renovated so many countless times that today only a tree that Francisco Pizarro is assumed to have planted might be the only remaining original. Perhaps some of the secret passages Pizarro has built to the most important strategic points in the city as well? Who knows … Nevertheless the last main construction works on the building in the 30s gave this historical monument an impressive beauty and elegance. You can visit the ‘palacio’ from Monday to Saturdays from 10.00am to 12.00 pm (take your passport with you) and enjoy the amazing patios, the richly decorated lounges, the impressive and beautiful entrance hall and all the other unbelievable treasures of nearly 500 years history of Lima yourself. Palacio Gobierno / Presidential Palace
Plaza Mayor (north side), Cercado de Lima, Lima Another historical and architectural monument that surrounds Limas Plaza Mayor is the Municipal Palace. The original building dates back to the early 17th century, where San Martin declared the independence of Peru from the Spanish crown on the 28th of July 1821. It was replaced in the 30s by this impressive mansion. Even if the facade is of neoclassical style, colonial characteristics like the beautiful wooden balconies remained.
Inside impressive white marble stairs lead you up to the golden era of colonial times. The ‘Palacio Municpal’ is really worth a visit (Monday to Friday 09.00 am to 04.00 pm). Interesting is the collection of photographs of ancient Lima, impressive the paintings from the Peruvian artists Ignacio Merino (1817 – 1876), José Sabogal (1888 – 1956) and Francisco Laso (1823 – 1869) and absolute astonishing the richly decorated entrance hall. But the highlight is the amazing library in a colonial ambience with treasures like the original of the ‘Charter of Foundation of Lima’ signed by Francisco Pizarro, the ‘Declaration of Independence’ and a piece of stone from the moon. Palacio Municipal / Municipal Palace
Jr. de la Union 200, Plaza Mayor, Cercado de Lima, Lima The ‘Palacio del Congreso’ borders the Plaza Bolivar in front and the Plaza Victoria at the back. The current building of the Congress is from 1904, but the parliamentary life of Peru began already with the independence in 1821. The first activities of the congress developed at the ‘University Mayor of San Marcos’; those days at the Plaza de la Inquisición (now Plaza Bolivar).
According to plans of the French architect Emilio Robert, the construction works for the new ‘Palacio del Congreso’ started in 1904 on the former premises of the chapel of the University Mayor San Marcos. The ‘Palacio’ was officially inaugurated in 1908 even if the works only finished in 1919. The chamber of the senate was only completed much later in 1938. The ‘Congress Palace’ is open to the public. Take a guided tour through this important building of Peruvian history, feel the atmosphere, learn more about the history, organization, function and importance of the parliament for the Peruvian democratic system. It’s worth it. ---> Link to the Museum of Inquisition and Congress - click here
Official Address: Jr. Ayacucho Cuadra 2, Cercado de Lima, Lima
Front view: Plaza Bolivar: Av. Abancay Cuadra 1, Cercado de Lima, Lima Visitors Entrance: Plaza Victoria, Jr. Andahuaylas Cuadra 4, Cercado de Lima, Lima Visits: Monday, Tuesday, Friday and Saturday from 09.00 am to 05.00 pm Recommended Topics
• Churches - Historical Churches in Lima - click here to follow the link
• Museums - Comprehensive List and description of Museums - click here to follow the link |